A CENTURY-OLD Cartier necklace inspired by the famous pharaoh Tutankhamun is set to go to auction after being rediscovered.
The necklace is just one item from a collection of Egyptian revival pieces from the French luxury goods retailer, created in reaction to the British wave of “Egyptomania” in the 1920s.
The necklace appeared – alongside other pieces – in an advert in The Illustrated London News in 1924, adjacent to news of the tomb of Tutankhamun (1336-1327 BCE).
The jewellery has now been rediscovered after a century in private hands, and is set to go to auction, where it could fetch £30,000.
The discovery of Tutankhamun’s tomb by archaeologist Howard Carter in 1922 raised interest and awareness in all things ancient Egyptian in Britain.
Cartier responded to the hype with a special limited edition collection of jewels, which featured Egyptian faience figurines and scarabs.
Specialists from UK auctioneers Wooley and Wallis undertook extensive research on the unusual diamond and ruby pendant and were indeed able to match it to the Cartier necklace that featured in the 1924 edition of The Illustrated London News.
The advertisement for these pieces came under the headline: The Tutankamen Influence in Modern Jewellery and the present piece can be seen in the top centre of the picture.
The necklace is seen supporting a long Egyptian faience figurine of the god Nefertem in the centre and its distinctive u-shaped base with hooked motifs at each side was designed to resemble the silhouette of the beaded usekh necklaces that adorn mummies and sarcophagi.
The necklace in the article is identical to the present pendant being offered for auction, except that the figurine of Nefertem was replaced by Cartier with an abstract floral arrangement of cabochon rubies.
While several reasons can be surmised for Cartier changing the design, the strongest seems to be that it was in an effort to tone down the Egyptian influence, as favour and fashion for such pieces dissipated.
During their research, jewellery specialists found that two other pieces from the same Illustrated London News advertisement appeared for auction in New York in 2013, bearing the distinctive Cartier Londres signature.
The current necklace, while also bearing the same signature is also numbered similarly, confirming it was made alongside these other two pieces and is from the same collection of Cartier jewels.
Commenting on the necklace and its rediscovery, jewellery specialist Marielle Whiting from Woolley and Wallis said: “We are delighted to offer for sale this remarkable rediscovery: an exquisite Egyptian Revival jewel crafted by one of history’s most renowned jewellers.
“Hidden away in a family collection and unseen by the public for a century, a glimmer of 1920s fashion and a true treasure.”
The necklace will be offered for auction in Woolley and Wallis’ Fine Jewellery sale on 30 January and carries an estimate of £20,000-£30,000 (lot 591).
